Bremer Bay – The last Three Weeks

Cabinets & Blue Paper

Monday 22nd – Friday 26 August

Cabinet maker Keith Conner, of AOK  Design Service, accompanied by his wife arrived onsite with his caravan, and set about measuring for the manufacture of our cabinets. Having previously met with him to discuss and finalise our plans he is now  onsite to see the build for the first time.

Keith and his wife Cheryl are from Perth and enjoy travelling around our great state, so the 1200km round trip was not as onerous as it would be to some.

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Keith at work

After he has measured up it is back to Perth to fabricate the cabinets, which will then be flatpacked and shipped down here for his professional installers to fit.                                              I’m thinking at this stage we will lay the hardwood flooring before we install the cupboards so as to preserve the integrity of the Warmboard tubing.

Corten Steel

We have decided that the  downstairs “Secret Men’s Business” room is to be clad in Cor- ten steel. So at great cost to the management we paid for an estimator from Carter Roofing to come and measure up the wall area so the profile could be pressed and cut to the exact measurements to enable Nino & co. to fix easily. No cutting etc                                          However: That now requires that we fix noggins(trimmers) every 300mm to accommodate the vertical fixing of this cladding

So after cutting and nailing in 75,396 trimmers (maybe a wee exaggeration) we were ready for the Insulation paper, windows and Corten cladding

I have been having many “lightbulb moments” of late concerning the Warmboard and it’s zoning (and later on the commissioning) as set out in our initial layout diagrams from Warmboard. As discussed before I did email Casey Kunselman from Warmboard and for those interested here is his prompt and very helpful reply in answer to my layman’s queries.

Hi Peter, please see my notes regarding your email in red below:

Q.Firstly, if the hardwood flooring surface temperature is not to exceed 80ºF (27ºC) how is this monitored to make sure that that temperature is not exceeded? Do we need a sensor under the hardwood strip flooring?
A. 85 F(30 BTU’s) is fine as a maximum, above that some people experience swelling of the ankles; This is a medical limit that responsible radiant designers will not exceed. I would set the water supply to 110 Fahrenheit, this should put your finish floor to between 80-85 degrees F. You can check the surface temp with a hand-held temp gun.
Q.I am assuming that if furniture (immovable as well as movable) or rugs are placed over the warmboard heated flooring then that would increase the surface temperature of the hardwood floor under that object. How do we overcome that or is it not an issue?
A. Not an issue. People must rearrange their furniture. Please do! Heat goes to cold, if there is no call for heat from above the floor, nothing is affected. Heat is also sensible, and will find the cold areas, and heat them.
Q. Also, in the design drawings that were done for us, Warmboard© divided our house into just two heating Zones, and in each of those zones there are different types of floor coverings, (ie tiles, carpet and hardwood strip flooring) but we are told we only need two thermostats, one for each zone. Again I would assume that because of the different R values for the different floor coverings then each different type of floor cover should be able to be controlled individually with its own thermostat and face plate or be zoned separately.
A. We zoned as requested. The definition of a zone is an area covered by one thermostat. You may loop the tubing in the Warmboard any way you want. As drawn, there are 10 loops of tubing. The flow of each loop of tubing can be controlled at the manifold. You could have up to 10 thermostats if you liked, using this same design. Carpet should be looped separately. Tile and hardwood have very similar heat outputs. Let me know how else I can help!

So armed with that information (dangerous I know) I set about rezoning the house, taking into consideration that the warmboard was already laid with the tubing loops and manifolds set out cater for two heating zones.   This is our re-Zoned wiring diagram,  now incorporating five zones.       heating-diagram                                                                                             Meanwhile Peter Taylor of Australian Sun Energy, who has been our stalwart “go-to-man” and supplier decided we would be better equiped if we changed  the heating  system hardware from Siemens© to Heatmiser © thermostats and control. (Peter has also borne the brunt of my many dumb questions and “lightbulb”moments on the install process over the months, but I seem not to have broken him ……. yet.)

Blue insulation paper & Window Frames

The windows are coming, the windows are coming, ….. well almost. There was an urgent need to get some insulation wrap on as Brad was due to arrive soon with a few frames to start the window install. Not all of them, (and no glass) as construction of some that were out of his control were behind schedule. However a start needed to be made as there was a fair bit of glass to go in, so requiring multiple trips. And at 1200km a round trip it is a big ask.

 Glass Arrives

Install in full swing

Below is our seven door bifold onto the deck, which we hope will be an insect free zone.

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Interestingly Brad (Mandurah Glass) has found a way to allow the windows to follow the curve. Most of the single windows are no more than 800 wide, and because they are in groups of three or four in an opening ie: two louvres either side of a fixed panel, the framing he has used allows each window to act a bit independently  from the group and is able to be kicked (angled) slightly without breaking the integrity of the whole window structure. Instead of having two mullions where the windows in a group meet and therefore a wider join he has been able to use a single extrusion to do the same job whilst allowing for each window to be kicked a bit to follow the curve.

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Shaun the sparky came on Sunday to catch up and go over the wiring in of the thermostats and actuators, also to wire in the Heatpump which will heat the water for the underfloor system. A few questions I have concerning that also need to be addressed. We do not seem to have any manuals, wiring diagrams or instructions for a lot of the hardware we are using and have onsite already. Maybe it is the way of the world, or maybe hydronic installers and electricians know this, but not many people I can find are experienced in what we are doing. Or my questions are too dumbassed that they shouldn’t  need to be asked, or so obvious have never been encountered.

Plenty Spaghetti

Anyway Nino and Ash away for another week, however I will chase up a few questions I have on the installation and wiring in of the hydronic system, maybe finally choose the decking, Hardwood or engineered, and find some Jarrah flooring which we intend to put over the warmboard.

 

 

 

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